CONTENTS


PREFACE


CHAPTER I

I arrive in Paris — The house in the Rue de Reuilly — The Thomases and the Messiers — A bit of old Paris — I go to see Yvon and Gérome — A funny incident — I am accepted at the École des Beaux Arts and received as a pupil in Gérome's studio


CHAPTER II

Looking for lodgings — The Rue Visconti — The concierges —The "hotel" in the Rue de Seine — Visions of romance — I am inscribed at the Beaux Arts — The Cours Yvon — William Stott of Oldham — Introduction to the Quartier Latin


CHAPTER III

I leave the Rue de Reuilly — My new quarters — I make a start at the École — The three ateliers de peinture — Gérome's, Cabanel's and Lehmann's — The routine in the Antique — A probationer — My fair neighbor in the Rue de Seine — A disillusion — Working hours of Paris as compared with London — The goûter — Types of students — French, English, and American — A stroll after work — Weekends en famille — The house in the Pare des Princes at Auteull — Practical joking — An incident at the Théâtre des Italiens — The fête at Versailles — An interesting experience


CHAPTER IV

I am passed for the atelier — My entrée — The Massier — Paying my footing — An impromptu picnic — "Ragging" the nouveau — A duel with paintbrushes — The corvée — A little unpleasantness — A studio procession in the Quartier — Models — The visits of the "Patron" — An amusing incident — Sympathy between the artist and his pupils — Gérome's kindly nature


CHAPTER V

Déjeuner in the Quartier — Thirions — Curious incident in the Rue du Four — Arlequins à 2 sous — A joke on the waiter — Copying at the Louvre — Julians — The atelier in the Rue d' Uzès


CHAPTER VI

The Quartier at night — The Boulevard St Michel — Petites ouvrières — A good joke and its dénouement — Practical joking in the streets — The woman on the roof — Searching for a louis — The cafés in the Quartier — Bullier — A conjuring trick — Joke on the cocher — Fun at the waxwork show


CHAPTER VII

My first love affair — Rose — Excursion to Meudon — Robinson — Fontenay aux Roses — A friture at Suresnes — La Grenouillère — Amusing incident in a restaurant — Practical joke in a studio — I leave for London — Farewell dinner with Rose — A last letter — End of my first love affair


CHAPTER VIII

I return to Paris — Looking for new quarters — The Rue de la Rochefoucauld — Buying furniture — The Baronne d'Ange — First night in my new room — Curious incident-— The restaurant in the Rue Vivienne — Eugénie — A rendezvous — A disappointment — My first sale of a picture — The petit rentier — I am commissioned to paint a portrait — A worrying sitter


CHAPTER IX

I am introduced at the Café de la Rochefoucauld — The habitués of the café — Distinguished men one met there — A Whistler anecdote — Petites dames — Models— La Sagatore — La Belle Laure and her tragic ending — English girls at the café and a joke on one of them — A favorite with the ladies — A witty remark — Stray clients at the café — The end of the Café de la Rochefoucauld — Bohemianism and some curious predicaments — Humorous situation


CHAPTER X

Cafés in Montmartre — The Nouvelles Athènes — The Rat Mort — The Place Blanche — Amusing experience — An incident on the Place Pigalle — The Abbaye de Thélème — The Elysée Montmartre — The Moulin de la Galette — The fast women in the Rue Bréda and the Quartier de Notre Dame de Lorette — Brasseries and cafés — The frail sisterhood — The underworld of Montmartre — The artists' colony — Studios — Artists' models on the Place Pigalle — The studio district — The inception of the Cabaret du Chat Noir — Rodolphe Sails "Gentilhomme Cabaretier" — Removal of the Cabaret to the Rue de Laval — Remarkable procession — A midnight escapade — Artistic surroundings of the "Chat Noir" — The theatre — Famous productions — Array of talent — Great success of the cabaret — Imitation "Chat Noirs" — The Lion d'Or — New school of decoration


CHAPTER XI

Commission to paint portrait of Monsieur Thomas for the Salon — I make a start — A studio in the Rue de Reuilly — Amusing episode — The portrait finished — "Sending-in" day — "Accepted" — A little dinner to celebrate event — A funny incident — The lady and the lion— The Vernissage at the Salon — Coveted invitations — The eventful day — The scene outside the Palais de l'Industrie — The search for one's picture — The crowd — Smart people — Déjeuner at Ledoyens — The scene in the Sculpture Hall after lunch — A drive in the Bois and a bock at the Cascade


CHAPTER XII

I move to the Rue Fontaine St Georges — I am commissioned to paint the portrait of Madame Thomas — Buying more furniture — A house-warming — Amusing jeu d'esprit — I take a studio with a friend — The Passage Lathuille — A bad neighborhood — Low rental — Studio furniture — Lady visitors — Impromptu lunches — The amateur model — An amusing experience — Attractive personality of the average female model — "Wrong uns" — Earnings of models — Faux manages— Long "collages " — Cat-and-dog existence — Middle-aged ex-models — The morals of the ancienne cocotte — How a collage usually commences — An artistic anecdote — Coolness of Frenchmen nowadays — An incident in a café — Mon amie in the Rue Frochot — Laughable incident — A lapse of memory


CHAPTER XIII

The Bal des Quatz Arts — Difficulty of obtaining ticket — My costume — Rendezvous at café — Indelicate costumes of ladies — Starting for the Elysée Montmartre — Sergents de ville guarding entrance — Stringent precautions — Impressions of ballroom scene — Gorgeous costumes of men — Distinguished painters — Nude girls — Blatant indecency of diaphanous evening dresses — Extraordinary spectacle — Wild dancing and deafening music — I meet a little model — Her costume — Processions of different ateliers — Wonderful effects — Supper served — The danse du ventre on one of the tables — No drunkenness a feature of the ball — Procession of students to Quartier Latin in morning — Arrest of a nude girl in street — True hospitality


CHAPTER XIV

Visit to the district of Fontainebleau — Marlotte — The village — The open-air painters — The village inn — The panels in the salle à manger — Painting everywhere — The forest — The main street — Food at the hotel — The petit vin — The table d'hôte — The people one met — Cheery crowd — Billiards — "Le jeu au bouchon" — O de Penne celebrated painter of sporting pictures — His maitresse — Their marriage — His house and bedroom — Ciceri, the landscape painter — His knowledge of women — "Her old man's day" — The daily routine in Marlotte — A new arrival — A radiant vision — The chic Parisienne — A new acquaintance — L'Inconnue — The commencement of a love story — Delightful days — A shock — The end of the romance


CHAPTER XV

Another incident at Marlotte — The American artist — A caricature after dinner — A mysterious departure — An unpleasant surprise for Marlotte — My caricature at the Prefecture de Police — Lost in the Palace of Fontainebleau — Exciting adventure — Unpopularity — An amusing joke


CHAPTER XVI

A visit to Moret — Funny adventure on way to station — A good-natured Frenchman — Willing hands — Arrival at station — Amusement of bystanders — Lost belongings — Incident in carriage — Disagreeable passenger — No smoking — A whistling story — Another smoking story — The bully and the bantam — A curious military incident at the Gare St Lazare — Moret and its surroundings — Lolling as a fine art


CHAPTER XVII

Changing characteristics of Montmartre — Advent of music — The Divan Japonais — The opening night — A merry evening — The orchestra — The audience oblige on the piano — An impromptu dance — Going round Montmartre — A "chinois sur lo zinc" — The garçon de marchand de vins — An unexpected musical talent— The gar
çon becomes a great pianist — Christmas in Montmartre — A party in studio in the Rue Bochard de Saron— Artistic arrangements — I give an impromptu ventriloquial entertainment — Extraordinary effect — "All's well that ends well" — Another incident — A duel by arrangement — Drawing lots — An unexpected climax


CHAPTER XVIII

Some strange examples of Bohemianism — The hidden treasure — An unexpected meeting after several years — A pathetic story — The dead child — Another incident — A bad-tempered, jealous woman and a meek artist — The worm turns at last — A dramatic ending to collage — Perverted Bohemianism — The young student and the married woman — Ruin and disgrace — The usurers of the Quartier Latin — Their hunting-ground and their agents — The spider and the fly — Speculative risks of money-lenders — Cherchez la femme — Contrast between Paris and London — Student life


CONCLUSION

Bohemian life in Paris — The charm of the café — Gradual change in one's tastes — The chez soi — Progress in one's work — New friends — Forced to return to England — A final visit to Gérome



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS



It was usually a question as to which was the least dilapidated and dirty

The concierges varied as much as the rooms

A little place in the Rue de Buci

Across the road to the marchand de vin for goûter

The types of students varied curiously

In a very few minutes they were both covered with color and in a hideous mess

Used to come round of a morning with a case of brushes and colors

J. L. Gérome

The Louvre, where there was an atmosphere of hard work

It was often quite amusing

Rose

And I was more in love with her than ever

His appearance of intense respectability

One of the girls was very pretty, fair hair, nice teeth, good figure, blue eyes

They were dancers at the Folies Bergères

At the café

The whole district was full of women and their souteneurs

The women sat at the tables in gloomy silence

At the "Chat Noir"

My first exhibited picture. (Portrait of Monsieur I. Thomas. Paris Salon, 1881)

Models

Stood irresolute before me where I sat at my easel

A very sympathetic and attractive personality

As here and there a pair of bare legs or a snowy neck and shoulders passed through

Those diaphanous evening dresses

Either painting or strolling about in the weirdest of garbs

Full of his own conceit

As though in a dream

In the evenings we generally managed to put in a cheery time going round to the different cafés

She was of so jealous a nature

These arrivés who in their time were amongst the most devil-may-care spirits of the Quartier



Cover

PUBLISHED 1913

Frontispiece



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